Pet amphibians need the right environment to stay healthy. The most critical factors are water and air temperature.
Amphibians are ectotherms (cold-blooded animals), meaning their body temperature is determined by their environmental temperature, and they are very sensitive to climate. They regulate their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas. The ideal temperature range varies by species. Most amphibians do well at 60–70°F (16–21°C). Tropical species may need 75–80°F (24–27°C), and if kept outside their preferred range, they may become immunosuppressed and develop secondary infections. They also might not absorb nutrients properly and develop nutritional diseases. Every amphibian enclosure should contain at least one thermometer. A vet with specialized knowledge of amphibians can advise on specific temperature needs.
Proper humidity levels are especially important for preventing land-dwelling species from drying out. Every amphibian enclosure should contain a humidity gauge. Most amphibians do well at 75–80% humidity. Tropical species may need 85–90% humidity. An amphibian vet can advise on specific humidity needs.
Aquatic species can be kept in aquariums with swimming areas. Regular testing of water quality is essential. Some aquatic amphibians need gentle water filtration that keeps water clean without creating strong currents. Even terrestrial species need a shallow water dish. Moisture can be maintained in the enclosure with small streams, waterfalls, ultrasonic humidifiers, or frequent misting.
Because amphibian skin absorbs water easily, it also absorbs toxins. Water must be free of chlorine, ammonia, nitrite, pesticides, and heavy metals. Chlorine can be removed by circulating tap water through a carbon filter for at least 24 hours. If tap water contains chloramines (disinfectants used to treat drinking water), specific dechlorinating agents should be used first, then the water should be filtered to remove chlorine and ammonia.
Distilled water should not be used in amphibian enclosures or when handling amphibians.
Pet owners should read bottled water labels carefully and test water when unsure. For aquatic setups, testing weekly for water temperature, pH, hardness, and levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate using an aquarium kit is advised. Biological filtration (external canister or undergravel filters) helps keep water safe.
Depending on the species' needs, cage-floor coverings can include gravel, soil, sphagnum moss, and mulch. Gravel should be too large for the animal to swallow or small enough to pass through their digestive tracts. Soils must be free of additives. Untreated hardwood mulches and leaf litter are options, but cedar and pine should be avoided because they contain toxic oils. Some species are irritated by low pH and may react to peat or sphagnum moss. To decrease pests, heat soil to 200°F (93°C) for 30 minutes or freeze below 32°F (0°C).
Amphibian enclosures require good ventilation (about 1–2 air changes per hour), and aquariums should have secure, ventilated tops. Live plants are helpful for terrestrial setups because they purify air, remove waste from soil, filter light, increase humidity level, and offer hiding and perching spots. Aquatic plants add oxygen, remove waste, provide shelter, and can feed larvae. Not all plants are safe for amphibians, so pet owners should check with an experienced amphibian owner, breeder, or vet before adding plants.
Ultraviolet B (UVB) lighting is required to prevent metabolic bone disease in amphibians. Not all “full-spectrum” light bulbs (bulbs that mimic sunlight) provide the right UVB levels, so pet owners should ask a knowledgeable vet or breeder which type of bulb to use. Bulbs should be replaced every 6–8 months or as directed by the manufacturer.
A clean enclosure helps to prevent disease. Food and water should be replaced daily, and uneaten food and waste removed. In established aquatic tanks, at least 10% of water should be changed weekly. Spot cleaning of cage-floor coverings should be done daily to weekly, and floor coverings should be completely replaced every few weeks to months, depending on the covering used. However, mosses, hardwood mulches, and soil support the development of helpful microorganisms, so small portions of these floor coverings should remain in the enclosure with each cleaning.
Enclosure cleaning tools, feeding dishes, and other objects can be disinfected with a bleach solution (1 ounce of bleach per quart of water [30 mL of bleach per liter of water]) for at least 30 minutes, then rinsed thoroughly and dried. Humidifiers and spray bottles need to be disinfected weekly. Disposable gloves are a must when cleaning to prevent disease spread.
