PET OWNER VERSION

Providing a Home for a Rabbit

Full Review: Jul 2026 ByLaurie Hess, DVM, DABVP, The MSD Veterinary Manual | Peer reviewed byManuals Staff
Last updated: Jul 2026
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Before bringing a rabbit home, prepare proper housing, choose an appropriate diet, and plan for daily exercise.

What Kind of Housing Does a Rabbit Need?

Rabbits can live indoors or outdoors, but they are sensitive to heat and poor ventilation, so they generally do better when kept inside in a climate-controlled, well-ventilated area. Hot, humid conditions can cause heat stress or death, especially in enclosed hutches or vehicles. Long exposure to temperatures above 80°F (27°C) can make rabbits sick. Domestic rabbits do poorly in temperatures below 50°F (10°C) as well.

Outdoor rabbits in harsh climates need roomy shelter that stays warm in winter and cool in summer. Indoor rabbits need a large cage and must be supervised when out of the cage. If rabbits are allowed to roam indoors, they must be kept away from wires, carpet, and other unsafe objects that they may be tempted to chew on. 

In areas without extreme weather, rabbits are often housed in hutches in a yard, basement, or garage. The hutch should be easy to reach so the rabbit receives regular care. Rabbits are often neglected if they're kept too far from daily activity. Housing must have good airflow, shade, and protection from dogs and other predators. Because rabbits can overheat or get frostbite, outdoor rabbits should be moved inside during temperature extremes.

Indoor rabbits often become a more active part of family life. They can learn to use a litter box and spend some time in a cage. Still, rabbits chew a great deal and can damage furniture, curtains, carpet, or electrical cords. Chewing wires is dangerous for both the rabbit and the home, so rabbits should be kept in safe areas when no one is watching them.

Exercise is essential for a rabbit’s physical and emotional health. A roomy cage helps, but rabbits also need daily time out of the cage in a safe, supervised area. Rabbits need enrichment, like cardboard boxes and tunnels to hide in, and safe toys, like untreated wooden blocks to chew on. Enrichment like this provides activity and helps prevent boredom.

Minimum cage size depends on rabbit size:

  • Giant breeds: at least 30 x 36 inches (76 x 91 centimeters), height 16–18 inches (41–46 centimeters)

  • Medium to large breeds: at least 24 x 30 inches (61 x 76 centimeters)

  • Small breeds: at least 18 x 24 inches (46 x 61 centimeters)

These are minimum sizes for one rabbit. More space is needed for multiple rabbits.

Each cage should include:

  • a feeder or food bowl for pellets

  • a hay rack placed off the floor

  • a water source, such as a hanging bottle or a sturdy bowl that can't be tipped over

Heavy bowls work well indoors if they're cleaned daily. Hay racks decrease waste and keep hay cleaner than putting hay directly on the floor.

Rabbits drink a lot for their size and should always have fresh water. They sometimes chew watering equipment, so durable bottles with stainless steel sipper tubes are best.

Rabbits have both a physical and a mental need to chew. Chewing helps wear down their constantly growing teeth and prevents boredom. Good chewing materials include hay, cardboard, straw, untreated wicker and wood, and pine cones that have been cleaned and dried. Because rabbits gnaw, cages must be made of sturdy materials. They should also be easy to clean and disinfect. All-wire stainless steel cages are often preferred. Wire flooring helps droppings fall away and keeps the cage cleaner, but rabbits also need a smooth resting area on the cage bottom made of plastic or another washable material to decrease pressure on the bottom of their feet and keep sores from developing.

Open pens should have nonslip flooring and can be lined with shredded paper or paper-based bedding. Sawdust and wood shavings are poor choices because they are dusty and can irritate rabbits' airways. If rabbits are housed in open pens, the sides should be at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) high to prevent escape.

For group housing, personality and compatibility matter. Rabbits raised together usually do best, but adult rabbits can fight severely. Neutering can help them get along. It's wise to house rabbits side by side in separate cages before placing them together in the same cage. Group-housed rabbits need enough room to establish territory, as well as to identify hiding and escape spaces. They should be monitored often.

Cage cleaning frequency depends on cage type and the number of rabbits in the cage. Rabbits usually choose one area for droppings, often in a corner. Cages must be kept clean, because dirty cages can lead to serious disease. As a general rule, an indoor rabbit’s cage should be spot-cleaned daily and fully cleaned with hot, soapy water at least once a week. Feeders and water containers should also be disinfected regularly. A weak mixture of bleach and water may be used to disinfect feed and water bowls as long as they are rinsed thoroughly afterward.

Pens or wire-floored cages should be brushed free of dried waste and dirt with a wire brush, or at least rinsed out, at minimum every 2 weeks. Droppings must be removed frequently, because ammonia from waste can irritate airways and contribute to infection.

What Kind of Grooming Does a Rabbit Need?

Rabbits groom themselves often. As they clean their coats, they swallow hair that usually passes through the digestive tract. Ingestion of large amounts of hair can block the digestive tract and contribute to dangerous digestive problems. All rabbits should be brushed regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair. Long-haired rabbits need daily grooming, while short-haired rabbits should be brushed at least twice a week.

Rabbits also shed every few months. Shedding might be light one time and heavy the next time. During shedding, extra brushing and cage cleaning help get rid of loose hair and lower the risk of digestive tract blockages from swallowed hair. Temporary bald spots can appear and usually grow back after shedding ends. If hair doesn't grow back in a bald spot, the rabbit should be checked by a veterinarian.

Can My Rabbit Use a Litter Box?

Rabbits can often be trained to use a litter box because they naturally prefer to have one bathroom area. Watch where your rabbit usually goes, and place a sturdy litter box in that spot. The rabbit should be able to enter and leave it easily. Litter box sides might need to be lower for older rabbits that have arthritis.

A medium-sized litter box usually works for small rabbits, while larger rabbits need large or extra-large boxes. Adding a few droppings when first introducing the box helps let the rabbit know it is the place to pass their droppings.

Choose litter that's safe if eaten. Good options include recycled newspaper pellets, paper pulp, or hay. If hay is used, replace it daily. Wood shavings, corncob litter, clay litter, and clumping litter should not be used because they can cause a digestive tract blockage if swallowed. Newspaper under the litter can help absorb urine.

Clean the litter box often to control odor and support health. It should be emptied and disinfected at least once a week.

What's the Best Way to Handle a Rabbit?

Many rabbits can learn to accept handling if they're approached slowly and rewarded with a small treat. Some rabbits learn quickly, while shy ones can take weeks or months.

When lifting a rabbit, always support the hind end and back legs. Hold the rabbit gently but firmly against your body, with one hand under the chest and the other under the back legs. Rabbits have strong back legs and can kick hard enough to injure their spine if they are handled inappropriately. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears. Their back claws can also scratch exposed skin.

Because improper handling can cause serious spinal injury, rabbits are often better pets for older teens and adults than for very young children.

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